The Capuchins

In via veneto 27, you will find S. Maria della Concezione, the church commonly known as  i Cappuccini ( the Capuchins)  after the long-bearded, brown-clad Franciscan sub-order to which it belongs, this baroque church has a St Michael ( 1635) by Guido Reni, which was a major hit with English Grand Tourists. The real draw, though, is the crypt, which holds Rome's most macabre sight: the skeletons of over 4,000 monks, meticulously dismantled and arranged in swirls, sunburst and curlicues through four subterranean chapels. Delicate ribs hang from the ceiling in the form of chandeliers, and iverted pelvic bones make the shape of hourglasses : a reminder (as notice states) that you will be what we now are.